Le Giornate del Cinema Muto - Pordenone Diary Day 1

Teatro Verdi

My journey to Le Giornate del Cinema Muto, I am ashamed to say began 30 years ago, perhaps longer. I first learned of this festival in an article in Smithsonian magazine, lo those many years ago. It is rather shameful it has taken me so long to make it to this lovely town that is not too far from Venice.

Originally planned for October 2020, no need to describe what caused that trip to go sideways. I did attend the online version and had good fun with like-minded friends in post film online chats and drinks. With the vaccine (for goodness sake, get the shot) and safety protocols in place 2021 was going to be a go; even the shadow of the Delta variant might cause more havoc. I booked my hotel optimistically in January 2021 and my flight in June having had my Pfizer shots in the spring. My flights got changed 3 times before I packed a heavy bag and headed to SFO for this long awaited adventure.

Sadly, the one change in the flights was shaving off a day of advance travel that would have gotten me in Pordenone on October 1. I missed the screening in nearby Sacile of Maciste all’Inferno (1926). I did see this in San Francisco, but, would have enjoyed it again.

After a very long trip, 2 flights, including a long layover at JFK I arrived this morning. Exhausted from lack of sleep, stiff as my second leg was less comfortable than the domestic leg.  Nevertheless, very excited to arrive, meet up with friends and secure my ticket and goodie bag. Once my taxi dropped me off, met friends for lunch, enjoyed my first gelato Baci con Nutella (merging the classic Perugina Baci with whole hazelnuts and Nutella spread). It was, in a word, HEAVEN. I will make more than one return visit, to be sure.  

Sadly, I did have to miss the early programs today, The Purple Mask (1916-1917) and An Old Fashioned Boy (1920) which I have on good authority was a stinker. They were accompanied by Dr. Philip Carli and I was most sorry to miss that.

Also do regret missing the first of the programs showing examples of Korean silent cinema, an ouvre completely new to me. Happily, I shall have more opportunities to see silent films and fragments throughout the week.

Ergo, my first film was Lady Windermere’s Fan (1925) produced by Warner Brothers and directed by Ernst Lubitsch. The film was preceded by welcome remarks from (I believe) the Mayor of Pordenone and Jay Weissberg the general director of Le Giornate del Cinema Muto. In truth, the first film was a snippet among the “Riscoperte/Rediscoveries” Ballonaufsteig (presumed from Germany circa 1911 or 1913). I love these glimpses back in time, lost forever. We saw swirling crowds watching the launching of several balloons, each manned by military men in uniform. We were treated to the launches, then long distance shots of them ascending ever higher and growing smaller. At 1.26 minutes, there was plenty of action. Accompanied by Daan van den Hurk on the piano it was a lovely start for me.

I have seen Lady Windermere’s Fan before (it is on one of the Treasures of American Film dvd boxed sets). Tonight was a new restoration of the film which is owned by the Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) and it was a thing of beauty. More dramatic than some of Lubitsch’s society fare and more dramatic than the original Oscar Wilde play on which the film is based. Starring May McAvoy as Lady Windermere, Bert Lytell as Lord Windermere, Ronald Colman in a rare second lead as Lord Darlington, the film is stolen entirely by the always wonderful Irene Rich as Mrs. Erlynne. She not only played the part to the hilt, her clothes, gowns, hats were amazing. It is a marvelous film of misunderstandings that ends all well that ends well for everyone. As I said, the film was gorgeous, beautiful restoration with lovely original tints. We were treated to a chamber score written and conducted by Carl Davis and played by the British Ensemble Psappha. A wonderful night to start this week of fellowship among friends and fabulous silent films.

Now, time for bed and dreams of more gelato.

Also, I am typing these updates on my iPad, apologies for awful typos.